Wednesday, May 23, 2007

The man who owns the Internet

The man who owns the Internet
Business 2.0 Magazine, May 22 2007 (June 1 Issue)
By Paul Sloan, Business 2.0 Magazine editor-at-large

Kevin Ham leans forward, sits up tall, closes his eyes, and begins to type -- into the air. He's seated along the rear wall of a packed ballroom in Las Vegas's Venetian Hotel. Up front, an auctioneer is running through a list of Internet domain names, building excitement the same way he might if vintage cars were on the block.

As names come up that interest Ham, he occasionally air-types. It's the ultimate gut check. Is the name one that people might enter directly into their Web browser, bypassing the search engine box entirely, as Ham wants? Is it better in plural or singular form? If it's a typo, is it a mistake a lot of people would make? Or does the name, like a stunning beachfront property, just feel like a winner?

When Ham wants a domain, he leans over and quietly instructs an associate to bid on his behalf. He likes wedding names, so his guy lifts the white paddle and snags Weddingcatering.com for $10,000. Greeting.com is not nearly as good as the plural Greetings.com, but Ham grabs it anyway, for $350,000.

Ham is a devout Christian, and he spends $31,000 to add Christianrock.com to his collection, which already includes God.com and Satan.com. When it's all over, Ham strolls to the table near the exit and writes a check for $650,000. It's a cheap afternoon.

Just a few years ago, most of the guys bidding in this room had never laid eyes on one another. Indeed, they rarely left their home computers. Now they find themselves in a Vegas ballroom surrounded by deep-pocketed bankers, venture-backed startups, and other investors trying to get a piece of the action.

And why not? In the past three years alone, the number of dotcom names has soared more than 130 percent to 66 million. Every two seconds, another joins the list.

But the big money is in the aftermarket, where the most valuable names -- those that draw thousands of pageviews and throw off steady cash from Google's and Yahoo's pay-per-click ads -- are driving prices to dizzying heights. People who had the guts and foresight to sweep up names shed during the dotcom bust are now landlords of some of the most valuable real estate on the Web.

The man at the top of this little-known hierarchy is Kevin Ham -- one of a handful of major-league "domainers" in the world and arguably the shrewdest and most ambitious of the lot. Even in a field filled with unusual career paths, Ham's stands out.

Trained as a family doctor, he put off medicine after discovering the riches of the Web. Since 2000 he has quietly cobbled together a portfolio of some 300,000 domains that, combined with several other ventures, generate an estimated $70 million a year in revenue. (Like all his financial details, Ham would neither confirm nor deny this figure.)

Working mostly as a solo operator, Ham has looked for every opening and exploited every angle -- even inventing a few of his own -- to expand his enterprise. Early on, he wrote software to snag expiring names on the cheap. He was one of the first to take advantage of a loophole that allows people to register a name and return it without cost after a free trial, on occasion grabbing hundreds of thousands of names in one swoop.

And what few people know is that he's also the man behind the domain world's latest scheme: profiting from traffic generated by the millions of people who mistakenly type ".cm" instead of ".com" at the end of a domain name.

Try it with almost any name you can think of -- Beer.cm, Newyorktimes.cm, even Anyname.cm -- and you'll land on a page called Agoga.com, a site filled with ads served up by Yahoo (Charts, Fortune 500).

Ham makes money every time someone clicks on an ad -- as does his partner in this venture, the West African country of Cameroon. Why Cameroon? It has the unforeseen good fortune of owning .cm as its country code -- just as Germany runs all names that end with .de.

The difference is that hardly any .cm names are registered, and the letters are just one keyboard slip away from .com, the mother lode of all domains. Ham landed connections to the Cameroon government and flew in his people to reroute the traffic. And if he gets his way, Colombia (.co), Oman (.om), Niger (.ne), and Ethiopia (.et) will be his as well.

"It's in the works," Ham says over lunch in his hometown of Vancouver, British Columbia. "That's why I can't talk about it." He's nearly as reluctant to share details about his newest company, called Reinvent Technology, into which he's investing tens of millions of dollars to build a powerhouse of Internet businesses around his most valuable properties.

Given Ham's reach on the Web -- his sites receive 30 million unique visitors a month -- it's remarkable that so few people know about him. Even in the clubby world of domainers, he's a mystery man. Until now Ham has never talked publicly about his business. You won't find his name on any domain registration, nor will you see it on the patent application for the Cameroon trick.

There are practical reasons for the low profile: For one, Ham's success has drawn enemies, many of them rivals. He once used a Vancouver post office box for domain-related mail -- until the day he opened a package that contained a note reading "You are a piece of s**t," accompanied by an actual piece of it.

Bitter domainers are one thing, lawyers another. And at the moment, Ham's biggest concern is that corporate counsels will come after him claiming that the Cameroon typo scheme is an abuse of their trademarks. He may be right, since this is the first time he's been identified as the orchestrator.

When asked about the .cm play, John Berryhill, a top domain attorney who doesn't work for Ham, practically screams into the phone, "You know who did that? Do you have any idea how many people want to know who's behind that?"

Spreading the word

Kevin Ham is a boyish-looking 37-year-old, trim from a passion for judo and a commitment to clean living. His drink of choice: grapefruit juice, no ice. His mild demeanor belies the aggressive, work-around-the-clock type that he is. Ham frequently steers conversations about business back to the Bible. Not in a preachy way; it's just who he is.

The son of Korean-born immigrants, Ham grew up on the east side of Vancouver with his three brothers. His father ran dry-cleaning stores; his mother worked graveyard shifts as a nurse. A debilitating illness at the age of 14 led Ham to dream of becoming a doctor. He cruised through high school and then undergraduate work and medical school at the University of British Columbia.

Christianity had long been a mainstay with his family, but as an undergrad, he made the Bible a focal point of his life; he joined the Evangelical Layman's Church and attended regular Bible meetings. Ham recalls that it was about this time -- 1992 or 1993 -- that he was introduced to the Web. A church friend told him about a powerful new medium that could be used to spread the gospel.

"Those words really struck me," Ham says. "It's the reason I'm still working."

After he graduated from med school in 1998, Ham and his new bride took off for London, Ontario, for a two-year residency. By the second year, Ham had become chief resident, and when he wasn't rushing to the emergency room, he indulged his growing fascination with the Net, teaching himself to create websites and to code in Perl.

Information about Web hosting at the time was so scattered that Ham began creating an online directory of providers, complete with reviews and ratings of their services. He called it Hostglobal.com.

From there it was a short step to the business of buying and selling domains. About six months after he launched Hostglobal, Ham was earning around $10,000 per month in ad sales. But when one of his advertisers -- a service that sold domain registrations -- told him that a single ad was generating business worth $1,500 a month, Ham figured he could get in on that too.

From doctor to domainer

It made sense: People shopping for hosting services were often interested in buying a catchy URL, so Ham launched a second directory, called DNSindex.com. Like similar services operating at the time, it gave customers a way to register domain names.

But Ham added the one feature that early domain hunters wanted most: weekly lists of available names, compiled using free sources he found on the Web. Some lists he gave away; others he charged as much as $50 for. In a couple of months, he had more than 5,000 customers.

By the time he finished his residency in June 2000, his two small Web ventures were pulling in more money in a month -- sometimes $40,000 -- than Ham made that year at the hospital. That was enough, he reasoned, to put off starting a medical practice for three more months, maybe six. "It just didn't make sense not to do it," he says.

With a new baby in tow, Ham and his wife moved back to Vancouver, settling into a one-bedroom apartment. Ham's timing, it turned out, was spot-on. Tech stocks were tumbling, dotcoms were folding left and right, and investors were fleeing the Web. More important to him, hundreds of thousands of valuable domain names that were suddenly considered worthless began to expire, or "drop." Ham and a handful of other trailblazers were ready to snap them up.

Figuring out when names would drop was tedious work.

At the time, Network Solutions controlled the best names; it was for a long time the only retail company, or registrar, selling .coms. It didn't say when expiring names would go back on the market, but twice a day it published the master list of all registered names -- the so-called "root zone" file (now managed by VeriSign (Charts)). It was a fat list of well over 5 million names that took hours to download and often crashed the under-powered PCs of the day.

So Ham wrote software scripts that compared one day's list with the next. Then he tracked names that vanished from the root file. Those names would be listed briefly as on hold, and Ham figured out that they would almost always drop five or six days later -- at about 3:30 a.m. on the West Coast. In the dark of night, Ham launched his attacks, firing up five PCs and multiple browsers in each. Typing furiously, he would enter his buy requests and bounce from one keyboard to the next until he snagged the names he wanted.

He missed a lot of them, of course.

Ham had no clue that there were rivals out there who were way ahead him, deploying software that purchased names at a rate that Ham's fingers couldn't match. Through registration data, he eventually traced many of those purchases to one owner: "NoName." Behind the shadowy moniker was another reclusive domain pioneer, a Chinese-born programmer named Yun Ye, who, according to people who know him, operated out of his house in Fremont, Calif.

By day Ye worked as a software developer. At night he unleashed the programs that automated domain purchases. (Ye achieved deity status among domainers in 2004 when he sold a portfolio of 100,000 names to Marchex (Charts), a Seattle-based, publicly traded search marketing firm, for $164 million. He then moved to Vancouver.)

Ham went back to the keyboard, writing scripts so that he, too, could pound at the registrars. Ham's track record began to improve, but he still wasn't satisfied. "Yun was just too good," he says.

Then Ham did something brash: He bought his way to the front of the line. Since registrars had direct connections to Network Solutions's servers, Ham's play was to cut out the middleman. He struck deals with several discount registrars, even helping them write software to ensure that they captured the names Ham wanted to buy during the drops. In exchange for the exclusivity, Ham offered to pay as much as $100 for some names that might normally go for as little as $8.

Within weeks Ham had struck so many deals that, according to rivals, he controlled most of the direct connections. "I kept telling them to hit them harder," Ham says in a rare boastful moment. "We brought down the servers many times." During one six-month period starting in late 2000, Ham registered more than 10,000 names.

Rival domainers, locked out of much of the action, didn't appreciate Ham's tactics. It was one of them, most likely, who sent him the turd. "Kevin came in and closed the door for everyone else," says Frank Schilling, a domainer who figured out what Ham had done and sealed similar deals. "There was a ton of professional jealousy."

Ham, in fact, owes a lot to Schilling. Both men lived in Vancouver at the time, and after Ham sought out Schilling in November 2000, the two met at a restaurant to compare notes.

"How much traffic do you have?" Schilling asked. An embarrassed Ham replied that he had no idea. Schilling mentioned that he was experimenting with a new service, GoTo.com, that would populate his domains with ads. Ham spent the next week figuring out how much traffic his sites were generating, and he was amazed by the initial tally: 8,000 unique visitors per day from the 375 names he owned at the time.

"From then on," Ham says, "I knew that what I was building would be very, very valuable." He soon signed up with GoTo (which was later purchased by Yahoo). On his first day, Ham made $1,500.

The system worked then as it does now: People don't always use Google (Charts, Fortune 500) or Yahoo to find something on the Web; they'll often type what they're looking for into a browser's address bar and add ".com."

It's a practice known as "direct navigation," or type-in traffic, and millions do it. Need wedding shoes? Type in "weddingshoes.com" -- a site that Ham happens to own -- and you'll land on what looks like a shoe-shopping portal, filled with links from dozens of retailers.

Click on any one of those links, and the advertiser that placed it pays Yahoo, which in turn pays a cut to Ham. That single site, Ham says, brings in $9,100 a year. Small change, maybe, but the name cost him $8, and his annual overhead for it is about $7. Multiply that model several thousand times over, and you get a quick idea of the kind of cash machine that Ham was creating from his living room.

By early 2002, roughly $1 million a year was pouring into Ham's operation, which he ran with the help of his high school friend and current partner, Colin Yu. But again he felt the tug of his conscience. He occasionally left Vancouver to do medical missionary stints, helping patients in Mexico, the Philippines, and China. He found the experience rewarding, but the development boom he saw taking off in China just reminded him of the virtual real estate boom he was leading back home.

Soon Ham was back working full-time on the Web. "There was just too much more to do," he says.

A little taste

There was no looking back. The next few years were among Ham's most aggressive. One of his most valuable tricks was one he had experimented with in the early days, a practice called domain "tasting." Tasting takes advantage of a provision that allows domain-name buyers a free five-day trial period. Intended to protect customers who mistakenly purchase the wrong name, it handed aggressive domainers another means with which to expand -- and exploit -- their portfolios.

Ham cobbled together new lists of domain words in every combination, registering hundreds of thousands of new names for free, monitoring the traffic, and then returning the duds. By 2004, Ham had amassed such a deep portfolio that he pulled his names from third-party registrars, launched his own registrar, and then created another company, appropriately named Hitfarm, that could do a better job than Yahoo of matching ads with domain names -- for himself and 100 or so other domainers.

Like any shopping spree, though, Ham's tasting binge didn't last. It brought in so many names -- offbeat strings of letters, names with too many dashes, and other variations that humans would be hard-pressed to think of -- that Ham saw the quality of his portfolio dropping in proportion to its growing size. For every few thousand names he'd register, he'd toss back all but a hundred or so.

Tasting exacerbated another problem too: Ham's software grabbed all kinds of typographical variations of trademarked names. Called typo-squatting, it's a practice now coming under the same intense scrutiny long faced by cybersquatters. Microsoft (Charts, Fortune 500) and Neiman Marcus are just two companies whose lawyers have brought anti-cybersquatting lawsuits, charging domainers with intentionally profiting from variations of their trademarks.

"Tasting changed everything," says Ham, who has since abandoned the practice, though he concedes that Hitfarm still holds some problematic names. "I said, forget it," he says. "Generic names are already too hard to come by. And the legal risks are too great."

The legal risks should diminish, however, if you don't own the domain names at all -- and that's the secret behind the Cameroon play.

New world order

The domain confab in Vegas is like any other trade conference: The real intrigue happens at cocktail hour. One subject in the air is Cameroon. Late last summer, domainers began noticing that something odd happens to .cm traffic: It all winds up at a site called Agoga.com. Domainers know, of course, that .cm belongs to Cameroon. And they know that whoever controls Agoga.com has created a potential gold mine.

What they don't know is who's behind it all.

At one of the meet-and-greets, Ham is standing drinkless, as usual, sporting a polo shirt, chatting with a few people he knows and some he's just met. In this crowd, it seems, everyone wants to know Ham. Finally, he is alone.

"I hear you're the guy behind .cm?"

Ham looks surprised by the reporter's question, then flashes a big smile and says, "I had help."

Over a series of conversations a few weeks later in Vancouver, Ham shares some details about a deal that, despite his innate reticence, he's clearly proud of. About a year ago, he says, he worked his contacts to gain connections to government officials in Cameroon. Then he flew several confidantes to Yaoundé, the capital, to make their pitch. His key programmer went along to handle the technical details.

"Hey," Ham says, flagging his techie down near the office elevator. "Didn't you meet with the president of Cameroon?"

"Nah," the programmer says. "We met with the prime minister. But we did see the president's compound."

It's an odd scene to picture: a domainer's reps in a sit-down with Ephraim Inoni, the prime minister of Cameroon, to discuss the power of type-in typo traffic and pay-per-click ads. And yet, as with most of the angles Ham has played, the Cameroon scheme is ingeniously straightforward.

Ham's people installed a line of software, called a "wildcard," that reroutes traffic addressed to any .cm domain name that isn't registered. In the case of Cameroon, a country of 18 million with just 167,000 computers connected to the Internet, that means hundreds of millions of names. Type in "paper.cm" and servers owned by Camtel, the state-owned company that runs Cameroon's domain registry, redirect the query to Ham's Agoga.com servers in Vancouver.

The servers fill the page with ads for paper and office-supply merchants. (Officials at Yahoo confirm that the company serves ads for Ham's .cm play.) It all happens in a flash, and since Ham doesn't own or register the names, he's not technically typo-squatting, according to several lawyers who handle Internet issues.

The method is spelled out in a patent application filed by a Vancouver businessman named Robert Seeman, who Ham says is his partner in the venture and who also serves as chief adviser at Reinvent Technology. (Seeman declined to be interviewed for this story.)

Ham won't reveal specifics but says Agoga receives "in the ballpark" of 8 million unique visitors per month. Fellow domainers, naturally, are envious.

"As soon as it started happening, there was a huge sense of 'Why didn't I think of that?'" says attorney Berryhill, who represents Schilling and other domainers.

Still, several companies have already tracked down Ham's attorneys, claiming trademark infringement. Ham argues that his system is legally in the clear because it treats every.cm typo equally and doesn't filter out trademarked names.

Berryhill concurs. "You can't really say that [wildcarding] is targeting trade-marks," he says. "It captures all the traffic, not just trademark traffic." Moreover, the anti-cybersquatting statute applies only to people who register a trademarked domain; using a wildcard doesn't require registering names.

Clever though it may be, .cm is "a very small part of our operations," Ham says. He won't disclose how much he pays to the government of Cameroon, whose officials could not be reached for comment.

The partnership has been a rocky one so far, and the system has sporadically shut down. But .cm is only one of several country domains where the typo play can work. According to Ham, he and his team are working with other governments. The dream typo play -- .co -- belongs to Colombia, to which Ham says Seeman paid several visits long before they began working on Cameroon. (Citing safety concerns, Ham hasn't yet made the trip. "I would only go if the president requests to meet me," he says.)

As for other countries he might soon invade, Oman (.om) is an obvious target. Niger and Ethiopia are out there too, but since they would play off less lucrative .net typos, they might not be worth the trouble.

As for Colombia, Ham says, "we're making progress."

The long view

Ham leans over his office PC to check on a domain auction. Steven Sacks, a domainer based in Indianapolis who works for Ham, is telling him about some names up for sale. Ham shoots back an instant message: "I like doctordegree.com ... and rockquarry.com ... sunblinds.com."

The days of figuring out the drop are long over. Everything's open now. Lists are easy to obtain. You can preorder a name before it drops and hope to get it. Or, like Ham, you can shell out five or six figures in online auctions. The only great deals, at least for .com names, tend to happen privately, when a domainer manages to find an eager or naive seller.

Ham still buys 30 to 100 names a day, but he's no longer getting them on the cheap. In fact, he and Schilling, who today maintains a $20 million-a-year portfolio from his home in the Cayman Islands, are often accused of driving up prices.

Take, for example, the $26,250 Ham paid for Fruitgiftbaskets.com, or the $171,250 for Hoteldeals.com. "The amount he will pay is crazy," says Bob Martin, president of Internet REIT, a domain investment firm that has raised more than $125 million from private investors, including Maveron, the venture firm backed by Starbucks founder Howard Schultz.

Nonsense, Ham says. The names are expensive only if you value them the way people like Martin do. The VCs and bankers, who were late to the domain gold rush, assess names by calculating the pay-per-click ad revenue and attaching a multiple based on how long it would take to pay off the investment.

Viewed that way, Ham's personal portfolio alone is worth roughly $300 million. But some of Ham's recent domain purchases would also look silly: They'd take 15 or 20 years just to justify the price, and that assumes continuation of the pay-per-click model.

But Ham is taking a longer view. The Web, he says, is becoming cluttered with parked pages. The model is amazingly efficient -- lots of money for little work --but Ham argues that Internet users will soon grow weary of it all.

He also expects Google, Microsoft, and Yahoo to find ways to effectively combat typo-squatting. Some browsers can already fix typos; Internet Explorer catches unregistered domains and redirects visitors to a Microsoft page -- in effect controlling traffic the same way that Ham is doing with .cm. "The heat is rising," Ham says.

When Ham buys a domain now, he's not doing pay-per-click math but rather sizing it up as a potential business. Reinvent Technology aims to turn his most valuable names into mini media companies, based on hundreds of niche categories.

Among the first he'd like to launch, not surprisingly, is Religion.com. Ham recently leased the entire 27th floor in his Vancouver building and is now hiring more than 150 designers, engineers, salespeople, and editorial folks.

Much of that effort is going into developing search tools based more on meaning and less on keywords. "Google is only so useful," Ham says.

The aim is to apply a meaning-based, or "semantic," system across swaths of sites, luring customers from direct navigation and search engines alike. Religion.com would then become an anchor to which scores of other sites would be tied.

"It's time to build out the virtual real estate," Ham says. "There's so much more value in these names than pay-per-click." Seeman's patent application even mentions the possibility of turning Web traffic from Cameroon and other future foreign partners into full-fledged portals.

It's all part of the master plan, as Ham aims to become the first domainer to move from the ranks of at-home name hunter to Internet titan. Smaller players have been selling out to VC-backed groups, and Ham expects that the best names will eventually be owned by just a handful of companies.

If he bets right, he might very well be one of them. "If you control all the domains," he says, "then you control the Internet."

Paul Sloan, an editor-at-large at Business 2.0, covers the ever-changing Internet landscape on his blog, The Key. Top of page
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PlentyOfFish Owner Has the Perfect Bait For a Huge Success

PlentyOfFish Owner Has the Perfect Bait For a Huge Success
WSJ, May 23, 2007
By Lee Gomes

The headquarters of what may be, on a per-capita basis, the busiest, most profitable site on the entire World Wide Web is on the 16th floor of a brand-new Vancouver building with panoramic views of the nearby Canadian Rockies.

It happens to be the apartment of 28-year-old Markus Frind, the owner and sole employee of PlentyOfFish.com, a free online dating site and a model for the next generation of Web entrepreneurship.

Lots of people run Web sites by themselves. But it's likely that no other solo venture runs at the scale of PlentyOfFish. For the week ended April 28, it was the 96th-busiest Web site in the U.S., according to the HitWise tracking service. That means it has more traffic than some of the Net's best-known destinations, such as Apple.com.

Busy Web sites like these usually require scores of people: technicians, certainly, to keep the servers running, but also programmers, marketers and the rest. Mr. Frind says people often don't believe him when he says PlentyOfFish is all his.

I needed to see for myself, so I spent an afternoon touring the company's roomy offices, which most people would call a spare bedroom. Unless there is a team of programmers hidden down the hall, or off in Bangalore, things are exactly as Mr. Frind says they are.

Mr. Frind was born in a small rural town in northern British Columbia. He headed to Vancouver in the late 1990s, went to trade school in computers and rotated through several dot-com jobs before starting PlentyOfFish in 2003 to keep himself busy.

The site was done without much of a plan, though Mr. Frind was intent on finding out how far he could get keeping it entirely free of charge. Most other dating sites charge anywhere between $20 and $40 a month for membership.

The site became popular in Canada and, later, in the U.S. Mr. Frind says he doesn't know exactly why.

There are now 1.2 million active members. HitWise says it's one of the five-busiest dating sites. Nielsen/NetRatings says that by some measures, such as the time its members spend on the site, it ranks second after eHarmony.

How does he do it? In large part, by keeping things simple. The graphical design ranges from rudimentary to nonexistent. No wonder, since Mr. Frind did it himself. The site also won't win any J.D. Power awards for customer support. If you write in with a problem, the odds are long about hearing back from either Mr. Frind or his girlfriend, Annie Kanciar, who helps now and then answering emails.

The site runs on Microsoft software on a half-dozen machines at a hosting facility a few miles away. From his bedroom, though, Mr. Frind can keep tabs on everything going on. When I was visiting last week, he showed me the site's monitoring program: 43,000 people were at PlentyOfFish at that moment, with 500 Web pages a second being sent out.

When you have that kind of traffic, you can make money three ways: via Google's small text ads, with bigger banner ads and through "affiliate marketing," where other sites pay you for sending them customers. Mr. Frind does all three -- and does very well. A few months back, he posted on his blog a picture of a check from Google for nearly $1 million for a two-month period. Google confirmed the check was for real.

Mr. Frind says the site brings in between $5 million and $10 million a year; lest even more competitors get onto his success, he declines to be more specific. That puts him ahead of some of the Web's best: Last year, each Google employee generated an average $1 million in sales.

PlentyOfFish is the success that it is because of several converging Web trends. Servers and server software have become simple and reliable enough that they can run on their own, without a lot of babysitting. What's more, a remarkably sophisticated economic infrastructure now exists that allows busy Web sites to make lots of money, certainly enough for one person to live very well. (Mr. Frind's consumption so far doesn't appear to be conspicuous; his major indulgence is travel.)

Mr. Frind, as one person, can afford to give it away. The big dating sites can't make enough just on Google ads to do the same thing, but the smaller sites can. One small site, HotOrNot.com, is dropping its monthly fees, fashioning itself after PlentyOfFish.

An ascent of free sites could shake up the online dating scene, which is already struggling with flattening growth in the U.S. Nate Elliott, who follows online dating for Jupiter Research, doubts the big Web sites have anything to worry about from for-free competitors. Mr. Frind disagrees; he said his own traffic in Canada has fallen lately as Facebook, the free social-networking site, has become more popular up north.

Many companies would respond to that sort of competitive pressure by hiring someone -- say, a strategic planner. Mr. Frind says he has no plans to do so. He has nothing against employees, he says, and he insists he isn't a control freak. Instead, he just enjoys the freedom to work on whatever part of the site interests him on a given day, without having to fret about who else might be involved. "No one else has ever done something like this before," he says. "It's like my own personal toy."






Biratnagar’s bookkeepers: This mercantile town is a hotbed of nation-defining politics

Biratnagar’s bookkeepers: This mercantile town is a hotbed of nation-defining politics
NepaliTimes, Issue #349 (2007-05-18 - 2007-05-24)
CK LAL

Biratnagar, settled in a glade less than 75 years ago, still bears a potted-plant look. Unlike old tarai towns such as Janakpur, Birganj, or Nepalganj, which grew organically, the settlement here is predictable.

Neat little plots by roads running at right angles to each other, sedate bungalows, orderly shopfronts, no children playing football in the street, not even on a Saturday evening. There are no abrupt turns, no blind alleys, and no surprises for a visitor taking a leisurely stroll. The dullness of the cityscape, however, is made up for by the rumour-mongering around Traffic Chok.

Local journalists eagerly await every homecoming of Girija Prasad Koirala. These are their chances to scoop national headlines, and Koirala often obliges with pithy soundbites on issues of national importance.

Early this week, speculation was that Koirala would deliver the final blow to the monarchy and effectively steal the Maoists’ thunder.

Instead, he delivered a damp squib, saying that it was not as easy to establish a republic as many of the lesser politicians believe in the coalition that he heads.

Nobody understands the staying power of the monarchy better than the man who has been fighting it for over six decades. He knows that for a declaration of a republic to be significant, the objective conditions that support the king have to change.

The April Uprising has severely weakened the five M’s that have always supported the monarchy—the military, the mandarins, the merchants, the mendicants, and the mediators. Some of these traditional forces now support some form of democracy for tactical reasons, but it will take a lot more for them to turn republican.

The merchants continue to be the most committed supporters of monarchy in whatever form. Nepal’s mercantilists have been cosy with the rulers since Jung Bahadur. Chandra Sumshere refined that the relationship further, and Juddha, who benefited from the boost in trade during World War II, invested some of the loot in industry. Biratnagar was home to some of his entrepreneurial ventures.

King Mahendra courted Mananges and Marwaris in his efforts to build a parasitic economy based on the vulnerabilities of state protection in neighbouring India. King Birendra gave continuity to the tradition, and screwdriver manufacturing, repackaging of exports, re-routing of imports boomed in Morang. During the 1970s, almost all the country’s big business houses thought it essential to have a presence in Biratnagar.

In these glory days, Matrika Prasad Koirala schmoozed with Marwaris. The Golchhas had a close relationship with Surya Bahadur Thapa. The Madan Lal-Chiranjivi Lal duo patronised Bhupal Man Singh Karki, and Tolaram Dugar brought Kirtinidhi Bista to Biratnagar.

The town also came to be known as the home of various prime ministers. It has been the stomping ground of all three Koirala brothers, Man Mohan Adhikari, Nagendra Prasad Rijal, Surya Bahadur Thapa, Mahesh Acharya, and Bharat Mohan Adhikari. Not too many are proud of Badri Prasad Mandal, but he too has an independent support base here.

That pahadi domination of this town is being questioned after January. For an emerging group of madhesis, Upendra Yadav is Biratnagar’s new icon. He is now a sworn republican, but his distaste of the mainstream parties and Maoists is even stronger than his anti-monarchy sentiments. His connection with Morang’s influential Marwari community isn’t yet clear. The monarchy has powerful backers in this mercantilist town and Koirala seems to have reluctantly accepted this for now. But he has to balance this with his republican constituency.

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Drinking up the view

Drinking up the view
The best rooftop bars for your buck
By Daniel Lehman
Special to amNewYork

Want a different summer escape every night of the week? As Manhattan’s rooftop bar season kicks into high gear, there are plenty of places to see a bird’s-eye view of the city.

230 Fifth
230 Fifth Ave, 20th floor, bet. 26th and 27th sts.
212-725-4300

With 22,000 square feet of space and enough wood benches and garden chairs for 500 guests, 230 Fifth, the city’s largest rooftop bar, opened a year ago on top of the New York Market Center. The space is so vast, it’s barely believable it fits in Manhattan. Enjoy the guava-, cactus- and blood-orangeflavored cocktails while you peer at the Empire State Building. Drinks average $12 each, but the 360-degree view of the city offers a rooftop vacation that’s well worth it.

A60
60 Thompson St. bet. Spring and Broome sts.
877-431-0400

Though a members-only bar, there are tricks to cracking open A60. Try reserving a room at the hotel downstairs. Two separate rooftop areas present guests with picturesque midtown and lower Manhattan skyline views. The bar has room for up to 100 people, and offers pricey exotic drinks and Thai hors d’oeuvres.
Bar 13
35 E. 13th St. bet. Broadway and University Place
212-979-6677

Amid a palm tree setting, this Miami-themed rooftop enjoys different themed parties and two-for-one happy hour specials on eeknights. Its proximity to NYU makes this a prime destination for students looking for South Beach flavor.

Cabana at the Maritime Hotel
88 Ninth Ave. bet. 16th and 17th sts.
212-242-4300

This Meatpacking District bar is consistently ranked as one of the city’s best rooftop escapes. In the summer, it feels like a cross between a trendy L.A. nightclub and a retro luxury cruise liner (credit the heat lamps and tropical wallpaper). The locale is a hot place to celebrity watch (Sean Penn and the Hilton sisters are both regulars), while a bottle of sake or a lychee martini are both guaranteed to cool.

The Delancey
168 Delancey St. at Clinton St.
212-254-9920

During the summer, the roof is the main draw at this three-floor Lower East Side rock-androll bar. The all-weather rooftop is palm- ronded, with benches, fountains and a barbeque pit. There’s even a retractable roof that shields partiers from the rain.

Gramercy Park Hotel Private Roof Club and Garden
2 Lexington Ave. at E. 21st St.
212-920-3300

The Gramercy Park Hotel opened its own rooftop bar this spring. Unfortunately, the bar is only available to guests of the hotel and select private members. The unique space houses paintings by Andy Warhol and Damien Hirst.

Roof Garden Cafe
The Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Roof Garden,
Metropolitan Museum of Art,
1000 Fifth Ave. at 82nd St.
212-535-7710

The diverse crowd at the Roof Garden mixes together, while enjoying views of Central Park from above. The “bar” is really just a concessions cart that serves alcohol and snacks, but in addition to the spectacular view, there are marvelous sculptures by Frank Stella.

Full List @ NY Times

More Nepalis holidaying abroad

More Nepalis holidaying abroad
eKantipur.com, 12-May-07
By Krishna Regmi

So what if not many tourists are coming to Nepal - more and more Nepalis are traveling abroad as holidaymakers!

Nepal is already sending far many more tourists to Malaysia and Thailand than it receives from those two East Asian countries.

According to data at Tourism Malaysia, around 12,000 Nepali tourists visited Malaysia in 2006. During that year, Nepal welcomed only 3,141 Malaysian tourists. Likewise, data with Thailand Tourism Authority shows that 21,180 Nepalis visited Thailand as tourists in 2006. Only 3,632 Thai tourists came to Nepal in the same period.

Besides Thailand and Malaysia, China and Singapore are also emerging as popular destinations for Nepali tourists. Sensing the outbound tourism potential in Nepal, several countries are increasingly trying to tap this opportunity.

"We are aggressively working to woo Nepali tourists, offering attractive packages at reasonable prices. We are expecting at least 10 percent growth in the flow of Nepali tourists this year," said Mohd. Roslan Abdullah, director of Tourism Malaysia, talking to the Post. He said the Nepali market is showing phenomenal growth.

Increasing wealth of people in the high-income bracket and the changing life-style of the young generation are generating more outbound tourism in Nepal. The relative expansion of the middle class may also have contributed to the phenomenon.

Liberalization on the foreign exchange regime, simplified visa procedures and easy availability of tour packages have provided a boost to foreign travel.

Subodh Rana, managing director of Marco Polo Travels, said they, in association with Tourism Malaysia, have been sending around 50 tourists every month to Malaysia. "The six-day package that costs around Rs 40,000 is among the most popular," he said.

Ajay Sharma, business development manager of Genting Interna-tional that operates Malaysia's First World Hotel, the world's largest hotel, said Nepal has become an important market as Nepalis are increasingly spending quality time abroad with their families.

Cruises are also fast gaining popularity among Nepalis. "This April 22 people went to Singapore for the Star Cruise," said Rana. "The package price of the cruise is US$ 2,000."

Rana said in order to meet the diversified choices of Nepali tourists his company has recently introduced seven-day packages for China, costing US$ 1,000.

Even a far away country on the African continent is eyeing Nepali tourists. Sensing the potential, Egypt has just entered the Nepali market.

"We are for the first time coming to Nepali market. Though presently, the tourist volume is not encouraging, there are bright prospects. We are embracing a plan to promote tourism products here to tap potentiality," said Samy Mahmoud, tourism counselor of the Egyptian Tourism Authority (ETA).

Rana of Marco Polo said working together with ETA, they have now launched seven-day packages for Egypt, with prices starting from US$ 470. Apart from these markets, Nepalis have also begun to travel to Europe, the US and Australia. "A number of Nepalis are buying travel packages to those countries. We have offered 20-day packages, which cost in the range of Rs 400,000 to Rs 500,000," said Rabin Bajracharya, sales and marketing director of Lalit Mandap Travels.

He said around 400 Nepalis have been going abroad through his company annually.

Monday, May 14, 2007

Gary Powers & Fred Pryor

American spy plane pilot Captain Francis "Gary" Powers has been freed from prison in the Soviet Union in exchange for a Russian spy jailed in the US.

Gary Powers was sentenced to 10 years in a Soviet prison after his U-2 plane was shot down over Russia in May 1960.

But on Saturday Captain Powers, 32, walked into West Berlin across a bridge separating the city's east and western sectors.

At the same time Russian spy Colonel Rudolph Abel crossed in the opposite direction.

Colonel Abel had served five years of a 30-year term for running a spy ring in the US.

His sentence was commuted by US Attorney-General Robert Kennedy two weeks ago.

However, the Russians have always denied any knowledge of Colonel Abel and even now maintain Mr Khrushchev freed the US pilot simply as a "goodwill gesture".

Another American, student Frederic Pryor, was also freed from the eastern bloc at the same time as Gary Powers.

Mr Pryor had been held in East Germany without charge since last August.

'Weather plane'

Gary Powers' capture in 1960 caused an international crisis.

Initially the American authorities believed there was no evidence left of either plane or pilot and tried to convince the Russians the U-2 had been a weather plane.

However, the Russians then produced Mr Powers alive and well claiming he had admitted spying for the CIA.

Russian leader Nikita Khrushchev demanded an apology from US President Eisenhower and when none was forthcoming plans for a superpower summit in Paris collapsed.

US authorities have said it will be at least a week before the freed airman is allowed to meet the press.

In the meantime they will no doubt want to establish how Mr Powers came to be shot down when U-2s were believed to be impregnable to anti-aircraft fire.

They will also be keen to find out exactly how much Mr Powers told his captors about the spy planes.

There was speculation during his trial that he had said more than his oath of secrecy permitted.

The release of Captain Powers comes a year after that of the two US airmen whose reconnaissance aircraft was shot down over the Barents Sea in January 1960.

Four of the crew died. Authorities in the USSR claimed the plane had been in Soviet airspace.

The two survivors, John McKone and Freeman Olmstead, were held in prison in Moscow for a year before being freed.




Saturday, May 12, 2007

Ancient Buddhist mural discovered in remote Nepal region

Ancient Buddhist mural discovered in remote Nepal region
AFP, 5-May-07

A team of explorers and scholars says it has found a cave in remote northern Nepal with a spectacular Buddhist mural unseen for centuries and discovered only because a shepherd took shelter there.

"The most exciting find we had was a cave that was clearly intended for religious purposes. It appears it was reserved as an assembly room for Buddhist teachings," team member Broughton Coburn, an environmental and cultural conservation expert, told AFP.

The local shepherd led the team to the cave in the Mustang region of Nepal, bordering Tibet. He had sheltered in it decades earlier during a rainstorm.

The cave contains a stunning, seven-metre (23-foot) long mural that the team believes dates from around the 14th century.

"We felt that it was unusual that a wall painting as intricate and delicately executed and intact could be found for the first time in this millennia," said Coburn, who returned to Kathmandu from the expedition earlier this week.

The Mustang region, which opened to tourists in 1992, is a visually stunning but often dry and harsh alpine terrain adjoining Chinese-controlled Tibet.

Much of the population of the region migrates for the winter to the lowlands of Nepal or India, as snowfall makes large parts of Mustang uninhabitable.

Its geographic isolation means that the region has maintained Tibetan culture and tradition to a much greater extent than Tibet itself to the north, the conservation expert and author said.

The team spent March exploring dozens of caves that had not been visited by humans for centuries.

"Initially, it appeared there were around 30 or 40 of these cave complexes but now upon travelling further afield, one can easily say there are between 100 and 150 of these cave complexes, individual cave cities," said Coburn.

Two world-class mountaineers assisted the team, leading it along perilous, steep routes into the caves in Upper Mustang.

For Pete Athens, leading the climbs into the previously unexplored territory knocked the experience of climbing Everest into the shade.

"I can unequivocally say that climbing into the caves was greatly more exciting than any emotions I had on Everest," said Athens, who has reached the top of the mountain seven times.

Athens and fellow climber Renan Ozturk had to invent new climbing tools to anchor the team to the poor quality, crumbling rock at the cave sites.

"We had to exercise extreme caution to enter the caves. We designed and made a number of prototypical tools to make climbing on high angle, poor quality rock possible," Athens said by telephone from his home in Seattle.

For him, the experience was unforgettable.

"Mustang's stark beauty, arid other-worldliness and opportunity for exploration render it a must visit for all explorers," the mountaineer said.

"The most exciting find we had was a cave that was clearly intended for religious purposes. It appears it was reserved as an assembly room for Buddhist teachings," team member Broughton Coburn, an environmental and cultural conservation expert, told AFP.

The local shepherd led the team to the cave in the Mustang region of Nepal, bordering Tibet. He had sheltered in it decades earlier during a rainstorm.

The cave contains a stunning, seven-metre (23-foot) long mural that the team believes dates from around the 14th century.

"We felt that it was unusual that a wall painting as intricate and delicately executed and intact could be found for the first time in this millennia," said Coburn, who returned to Kathmandu from the expedition earlier this week.

The Mustang region, which opened to tourists in 1992, is a visually stunning but often dry and harsh alpine terrain adjoining Chinese-controlled Tibet.

Much of the population of the region migrates for the winter to the lowlands of Nepal or India, as snowfall makes large parts of Mustang uninhabitable.

Its geographic isolation means that the region has maintained Tibetan culture and tradition to a much greater extent than Tibet itself to the north, the conservation expert and author said.

The team spent March exploring dozens of caves that had not been visited by humans for centuries.

"Initially, it appeared there were around 30 or 40 of these cave complexes but now upon travelling further afield, one can easily say there are between 100 and 150 of these cave complexes, individual cave cities," said Coburn.

Two world-class mountaineers assisted the team, leading it along perilous, steep routes into the caves in Upper Mustang.

For Pete Athens, leading the climbs into the previously unexplored territory knocked the experience of climbing Everest into the shade.

"I can unequivocally say that climbing into the caves was greatly more exciting than any emotions I had on Everest," said Athens, who has reached the top of the mountain seven times.

Athens and fellow climber Renan Ozturk had to invent new climbing tools to anchor the team to the poor quality, crumbling rock at the cave sites.

"We had to exercise extreme caution to enter the caves. We designed and made a number of prototypical tools to make climbing on high angle, poor quality rock possible," Athens said by telephone from his home in Seattle.

For him, the experience was unforgettable.

"Mustang's stark beauty, arid other-worldliness and opportunity for exploration render it a must visit for all explorers," the mountaineer said.